In which the travelers speak softly and carry a big stick
Leaving Kuta Beach was bittersweet: although it was one of the most touristy places we’ve been (its probably one of the most touristy places in the world), we were having fun playing in the ocean and learning how to surf (well, only on body boards so far). Still, it was time to go, and we’ve heard great things about how laid-back and relaxing Ubud is. Ubud is a small town about one hour’s drive inland from Kuta Beach and Denpasar.
Before our minibus had even stopped, several touts approached us, offering to take us to their hotels. We are getting better at not getting phased by their high-octane harassment, knowing that at best, touts can be beneficial (i.e. when you need a room, or directions). We hesitatingly agreed to follow one of them, although we made it clear that if the hotel wasn’t to our liking, we’d move on. The place he took us to had a pool and a double bed, but was still being built and so would be noisy in the early hours of the morning (the Indonesian work day starts pretty early. Further, the room was constructed in the traditional style where the walls and the ceiling have a large space between them. Although this allows for airflow, it also allows for mosquitoes to get in and dine on Gin’s tasty blood. Rejected.
The next place we visited looked beautiful, but we thought that it would be out of our price range. It had a larger pool, and immaculately-manicured gardens with large statues including Hindu gods, Komodo dragons, and monkeys with monstrous erections (this whole island seems preoccupied with penises: we thought about buying Ric’s mom, Marie, a larger-than-life-sized phallus key chain.). Rooms here ranged from $35 to 80+ per night, which was more than we wanted to pay. We started bargaining by countering with $20, knowing that in Bali prices are always negotiable, and keeping in mind that bargaining is an art form not a battle to be won. After some pleasant posturing on both sides, the hotel folks eventually agreed to $27, which we thought was fair given the cleanliness of the room, the size of the pool, and the serenity of the grounds.
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We refreshed in our room, with our complimentary welcome drinks, then headed out to explore Ubud. We didn’t make it that far before we found a great cafe that served delicious mostly-organic food. Gin pointed out that we will have to come back, since she is determined to try one of everything on the menu. Many of the tables were flanked by cushioned lounging areas where folks could take off their shoes and curl up with a book (or laptop). They also had wifi, which is a selling feature with us, so we continued to upload photos and post some more blog entries.
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After a satisfying lunch we walked around a saw lots of cool shops, mostly selling clothes, furniture, and large paintings. Since we’re trying to travel light, we probably won’t buy anything, but it is nice to window-shop.
We had dinner at an Indian restaurant, where Ric had homemade ginger beer; it was both much less delicious than he hoped, and much more yeasty than he expected. While we were eating we watched a pack of dogs outside fighting over the garbage that was in a large garbage can that they had managed in climb into. With their growling and yelping we remember how Thailand Tom had been bitten by street dogs, and wondered if we should find a large stick to protect ourselves. As we left, the dogs seemed mostly uninterested in us, but nonetheless several barked at us when we got too close.
We walked the rest of the way home, wary of the street dogs, and declining offers of “Taxi?” and “Transport?” every few meters. Tomorrow we may visit the Monkey Forest Sanctuary, after Gin cultivates her tan by the pool, of course.